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LRN December Cover

December 2002

 

The return of the Djan'kawu sisters


Aboriginal Dancers  

As the storm clouds build over the remote east Arnhem Land coastline, the keepers of this land prepare for the climax of a ceremony almost as old as the land itself - and one that is vital to its health.

 
  NT Map

It is mid-October on Elcho Island and the land is brown and dry, exhausted from the long Dry, crying out for the new life the approaching Wet Season will bring.

For months now, a series of ceremonies has been slowly building momentum through the eastern Yolngu heartlands, preparing for the arrival of the Djan'kawu Sisters and the cleansing they will bring.

The final weekend of the ceremony is always timed to coincide with the first thunder of the Wet Season, and this year it will take place at Richard Gandhuwuy's picturesque Elcho Island outstation of Dhambala Community, washed by the warm waters of the Arafura Sea.

 

 

Elcho Islanders

Elcho Islanders

But this is no ordinary time. Richard, Garrawurra clan elder and leader of the ngarra ceremony for the Dhuwa moiety as his father was, explains the ceremony has not taken place for 15 years.

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QuoteThis is the first time after my father slept. It's very important for our dignity and the dignity of other clan people that we hold this ceremony.

It is too important, this ngarra, to leave for so long. We need to wash physically and spiritually.

This is very important, people wanted to live with their own dignity, (because) you are honouring the other clans in the ceremony.

When I was young that was the way it was, every year at the end of the Dry season but timed to when the Wet season came in.

All the elders come together for the final ngarra. I ask for the specialists to come and help me do these things, to make sure everything is running properly. That's because this is cleansing all the Dhuwa land, it is very important we get it right, not just for Elcho but for everyone.Unquote


Garrawurra Clan Elder Richard Gandhuwuy

 

The ngarra ceremony on Elcho Island is a Dhuwa moiety ceremony, and was preceded by a Yirritja moiety ceremony at Milingimbi. Richard says both moieties are welcome to attend each other's ceremony - Richard went to the Milingimbi ngarra - but that only members of the moeity holding the ceremony can participate.

In total some 23 clans, or about half of the clans living in East Arnhem Land, have participated in this ceremony.

 

  Elcho Islanders

Richard explains that the Djan'kawu Sisters are two of the main creator beings across east Arnhem Land, responsible for much of the traditional law and order.


QuoteAs they travel they name the land, they give the clans their name, and they give the ownership to the land. They make the waterholes and everything we need. They went right through this country from east to west and connect it together, past Darwin, past Daly River, right up to Perth.Unquote


Richard Gandhuwuy

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Each evening of the final weekend there are dances and songs as the Sisters draw closer, with participants painted in the Sisters' Dreaming colours.

One of the key dances in the ngarra is the Bush Turkey dance, which the elders traditionally perform and which gives the elders authority over their land.

It is accompanied by the unmistakeable ululating call of the turkey coming from the dancers' throats.

On the final day of the ngarra, when the Djan'kawu Sisters arrive, the women hide under blankets and emerge as witchetty grubs, welcoming in the new Wet Season.

Then the entire community goes to the beach for ritual saltwater purification, an activity accompanied by much laughter and water play.

This is, without doubt, a joyful ngarra.


QuoteWe're hoping the new thunders come, new year, new life, new creation, people will be back at the beginning of their clean life and hoping for good things. Now we must continue. My sons must continue this ngarra, build it up, make it strong again.Unquote


Richard Gandhuwuy

 

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