Goomadeer Walk

With the paper-bark off, the hungry walkers chedk the crocodile meat

It's the Dry Season in the Top End of the Northern Territory.

Little or no rain at this time of year transforms the landscape from green to brown. But from the air the escarpment country that passes below our helicopter has managed to retain a thin carpet of green, almost defying Mother Nature's seasonal patterns.

All that quickly changes as the chopper descends lower onto the flat country. It's here that the dry, parched landscape below begins to resemble a typical Dry Season setting. In the distance thick clouds of smoke billow into the air. The pilot's voice crackles through our headsets, letting us know that it's these clouds we are headed for.

On the ground is a group of bush walkers - 19 to be precise, 18 of whom are Aboriginal. All are learning new skills and all are committed to completing a seven-day trek through some of Australia's most rugged yet spectacular landscape on the Arnhem Land plateau next to the World Heritage-listed Kakadu National Park.

We touch down on the rocky-river bed of the dry Goomadeer River. The group resting nearby under the shade of leaning paperbark trees turn their heads to avoid the mini sandstorm our arrival has created, while on the opposite bank a bush fire snaps and crackles.

Lit by the group, its purpose is to rejuvenate the land. By removing the old, new growth can begin. This regrowth is designed to attract native game species, which in turn provides valuable hunting grounds for the Traditional Owners of this country. It's a practice that's been utilised over countless years.

The walkers' presence along the banks of the Goomadeer River in Western Arnhem Land is all part of a greater purpose. Many of the group are trainee Rangers with the Northern Land Council's Caring For Country Unit. All are young men with a vested interest in caring for their traditional homelands.

They're not only learning a variety of skills - traditional and contemporary - but more importantly, they are learning how to care for their country.

Of great concern is the incursion of the dreaded cane toad. The walkers had already discovered this foreign invader two days before our arrival. The toad presents a worrying sign for traditional owners. Its impact on native fauna, and thus the traditional bush tucker diet, is well documented. Finding a way to eliminate them has been stamped 'urgent'.

Fortunately the toads haven't yet managed to impact on the local black bream population. The bush walkers are doing a good enough job themselves to reduce these numbers.

The freshwater crocodile wrapped in paper-bark and cooking slowly in a nearby earth oven is a testimony to their hunting skills.

With two days to go and plenty of walking in front of them, the walkers begin to stir - they're keen to keep moving, nightfall isn't too far off and they've still got to reach their overnight destination some seven kilometres away.

Sensing their restlessness, it's time we too were on our way. The chopper lifts off the rocky-river bed and swoops low over the walkers one final time before our paths diverge - ours heading for the comforts of Darwin and theirs to yet another night under the stars.